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Lovage — the secret from Kai’s garden

Lovage — the secret from Kai’s garden

How an almost forgotten kitchen herb gives the Salathimmel its unmistakable character.

Lovage — in the north sometimes called “Maggikraut”, though it has nothing to do with the seasoning — has always grown abundantly in the Old Bakery’s garden. Kai Voigt looked for a use for the strong, aromatic leaves, and so a gardener’s question became a recipe idea.

The herb brings a savoury, almost celery-like depth that lifts a dressing from “nice” to “unforgettable”. It is exactly this note that guests kept asking about at the table — and it remains the heart of the Sylter Salathimmel to this day.

We still harvest from the island and season every batch by hand. Because lovage is temperamental: too little and the savouriness is missing; too much and it dominates. The right balance is part of our trade secret.

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